nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Design Review

“Hand-Embellished Cotton Gota Frock”

  • Ready-to-wear summer frock designed for the Lyallpore Couture collection
  • Softly flared silhouette allowing ease of movement and relaxed wear
  • Surface embellishment used as the primary visual focus
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroider
  • Structured front yoke with softly gathered lower section
  • Coordinated sleeve borders repeating the yoke embellishment
  • Lightweight construction suitable for warm-weather wear
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
  • Coordinated border detail repeated on sleeve edges
  • Raised folded units creating texture and reflective movement
  • Black appliqué base increasing clarity and definition of motifs
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
  • Shocking pink cotton base fabric
  • Multicolour metallic gota ribbons
  • Black contrast fabric used beneath appliqué work
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
  • Traditional gota techniques adapted into a lighter ready-to-wear format
  • Ornamentation intentionally limited to the yoke and sleeve borders
  • Designed to balance handcrafted textile tradition with contemporary international wear
  • Handcrafted traditional gota ribbon appliqué embroidery
front view nazo dr350 x 1000 px)
folded gota shapes – petals and leaves l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Folded Gota Shapes – Petals and Leaves

gota ribbons and materials l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Gota Ribbons and Materials

multi gota appliqué yoke detail l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Multi Gota Applique Yoke Detail

sketch of gota placement l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Sketch of Gota Placement

closeup of round motif dr

closeup of round motif

winding metallic gota ribbons by hand l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Winding Metallic Gota Ribbons By Hand

back view nazo dj (350 x 1000 px)

Design Journal

“What you seek is seeking you.” — Jalaluddin Rumi

I had known gota work since childhood. It belonged to celebrations, family gatherings, and the ritual of dressing for special occasions. Even the smallest folded ribbon could catch the light and transform simple fabric into something festive and ceremonial.

Travelling through Bahawalpur changed the way I understood the craft. Surrounded by desert landscape, the city carried a brightness shaped through colour and textile tradition. Strong pinks, oranges, yellows, and reds stood against the muted tones of the desert like signs of celebration and life. Cotton was equally important—light, breathable, and practical in extreme heat, yet capable of carrying rich handcrafted surface decoration.

As I walked through the historic bazaar beneath the mosque built by the Nawab of Bahawalpur, the narrow streets were filled with fabrics, chunri, embroidery, dyeing, block printing, and folded metallic ribbons ready to be stitched by hand into decorative forms.

That atmosphere stayed with me long after I left. I became inspired to reinterpret traditional gota appliqué for a Lyallpore summer Eid collection, adapting the craft into a lighter contemporary form. The embellishment for Nazo was intentionally limited to the sleeves and front yoke, allowing the folded metallic shapes and multicolour ribbons to remain the focus.

The handcrafted appliqué work was later produced through House of Subhani, continuing the connection between traditional artisan techniques and contemporary textile design.

closeup of yoke and sleeve border l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Closeup of Yoke and Sleeve Border

multi gota appliqué yoke detail l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Multi Gota Applique Yoke Detail

noor mahal bahawalpur l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Noor Mahal Bahawalpur

closeup of leaves dj

closeup of leaves

shop in a bazaar beneath the mosque l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Shop in a Bazaar beneath the Mosque

sleeve border embellishment close up l nazo cotton gota frock by afshan shahid

Sleeve Border Embellishment Close-Up

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Waqas
Waqas
8 days ago

Good Fabric!

Afshan Shahid
Afshan Shahid
6 days ago
Reply to  Waqas

Thanks the cotton is good quality!

Ahmed
Ahmed
8 days ago

Amazing!

ali
ali
8 days ago

informative article.

Afshan Shahid
Afshan Shahid
6 days ago
Reply to  ali

Glad you enjoyed the journal!

  • Yarn: Alize Cotton Gold
  • Fibre: 55% cotton, 45% acrylic
  • Bought from: Istanbul
  • Colours: 141 Royal Blue / cobalt blue, 58 Navy, 200 Grey
  • Quantity: 5 balls cobalt blue, 2 balls navy, 2 balls grey
  • Crochet hook: 3.5 mm
  • Chain stitches
  • Treble crochet
  • Double crochet
  • Slip stitch
  • Cluster stitches
  • The main jacket was constructed from two large crochet hexagon shapes.
  • Each hexagon was worked separately, then opened and shaped to form the body and sleeves.
  • The two hexagon sections were joined together to create the main cardigan shape.
  • The neckline was finished with a soft wavy edge, inspired by the movement of the Bosphorus.
  • The cobalt blue open crochet gives the jacket lightness, drape and movement.
  • Cobalt blue forms the main body of the jacket.
  • Navy creates depth and contrast within the motifs.
  • Grey highlights the textured details and softens the design.
  • The colour palette reflects Istanbul’s blue light, İznik tilework and the protective eye symbol.
  • Three different square motifs were made first.
  • Cluster and textured stitches were used to create raised floral and tile-like effects.
  • The motifs were connected together using chain stitches.
  • The joined motif panels were then added to the main jacket.
  • The square motifs create the tile-inspired surface pattern across the back, hem and sleeves.
  • Finished with a handmade eye-shaped tie closure.
  • The tie was made as a replica of Amina’s Eye.
  • It works as both a fastening and symbolic embellishment.
  • A one-of-a-kind crochet jacket combining openwork, texture and cultural memory.
  • The piece sits between slow fashion, handmade fashion and wearable art.
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