zareen embroidered jacket by afshan shahid

Design Review

Inspired by the old city of Lahore, this piece draws from the colours and architectural rhythm of Shalmi Bazaar and Wazir Khan Mosque.

  • This collection is inspired by Mughal floral decoration, translated into a long vertical garment design.
  • The floral motif is placed in narrow front panels, creating height, balance, and a formal architectural feeling.
  • Although the motif remains consistent across the pieces, each colourway changes the mood and character of the garment.
  • The overall look combines heritage embroidery with a clean, wearable silhouette.
  • The garments are made in a handwoven cotton-silk blend.
  • The fabric has a soft sheen with slight natural texture, giving the pieces a refined but handmade quality.
  • The surface decoration is detailed without covering the whole garment, allowing the fabric itself to remain visible.
  • The Mughal-inspired floral embroidery runs vertically down the front.
  • Hand-applied white crystals in round, teardrop, and oval shapes add light and texture.
  • The embellishment catches the light but does not overpower the floral design.
  • The sleeve borders repeat the decorative language in a restrained way.
  • Mehru Mint: Uses light mint and soft teal, giving a fresh and delicate feeling.
  • Neel Teal: Combines deep teal with silver and black, creating a richer and more formal mood.
  • Gulnaar Pink: Uses a vibrant fuchsia tone, giving the garment a bold and celebratory look.
  • The garment has a long, straight silhouette designed for versatile wear.
  • It falls to approximately mid-shin length.
  • The front opening uses fabric loops and covered buttons, adding rhythm down the centre.
  • The back is plain, keeping the focus on the decorated front.
  • There is no hem border, which helps the design stay light and elegant.
front view dr zareen (350 x 1000 px)
design language refined timeless and structured l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

design language refined timeless and structured

motif development crystal embelishment l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

motif development crystal embelishment

hand woven cotton silk net mint teal fuchia l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

hand woven cotton silk net mint teal fuchia

sleeve border subtle detailing l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

sleeve border subtle detailing

colour variation motif & embroidery l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

colour variation motif & embroidery

closeup of golden fabric buttons and loops

closeup of golden fabric buttons and loops

front view dj zareen (350 x 1000 px)

Design Journal

“Colour remembers what time forgets.”

There are places where time settles rather than passes. Entering through Delhi Gate, the old city unfolds through narrow streets, shifting light, and layers of colour that feel both immediate and remembered.

Shalmi Bazaar is not simply a marketplace for me—it is part of my design process. It is one of the oldest and largest bazaars in Asia, where fabric, embellishment, and skilled craftsmen exist together. It allows ideas to move quickly from observation into making.

I am drawn to Mughal motifs—their balance of structure and fluidity. Passing Wazir Khan Mosque, the eye follows arches and floral tilework in a quiet rhythm. The repetition never feels rigid; it moves.

It was here that I selected the fabrics—light mint green, deep teal, and vivid fuchsia. These colours were not planned, but chosen from what felt present in the space.

The motif formed gradually, shaped by what I had been seeing. I developed it into a vertical composition, echoing the elongated panels found in Mughal design.

Machine embroidery gave the work precision and consistency. Hand embellishment, completed at the House of Subhani, brought back variation and depth.Crystals were added with restraint—only to catch light briefly, never to dominate.

The garment remains simple. Long, straight, and uninterrupted. The sleeve carries detail, while the hem is left open, allowing the design to rise.

Zareen brings together observation, memory, and making—something seen, then shaped into form.

shahalmi bazaar a world of colour,texture & tradition l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

shahalmi bazaar a world of colour,texture & tradition

material choices beads laces and stones l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

material choices beads laces and stones

wazir khan mosque mughal floral harmaony l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

wazir khan mosque mughal floral harmaony

three colourways one design three moods l zareen long jacket emb website by afshan shahid

three colourways one design three moods

buttons and loop placement

buttons and loop placement

closeup of motif

closeup of motif

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Anonymous
Anonymous
1 month ago

Beautiful 2 jackets in different colors for me

Anonymous
Anonymous
1 month ago

I love the embroidery!

kevinandrean9248@gmail.com
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kevinandrean9248@gmail.com
8 days ago

Amazing

  • Yarn: Alize Cotton Gold
  • Fibre: 55% cotton, 45% acrylic
  • Bought from: Istanbul
  • Colours: 141 Royal Blue / cobalt blue, 58 Navy, 200 Grey
  • Quantity: 5 balls cobalt blue, 2 balls navy, 2 balls grey
  • Crochet hook: 3.5 mm
  • Chain stitches
  • Treble crochet
  • Double crochet
  • Slip stitch
  • Cluster stitches
  • The main jacket was constructed from two large crochet hexagon shapes.
  • Each hexagon was worked separately, then opened and shaped to form the body and sleeves.
  • The two hexagon sections were joined together to create the main cardigan shape.
  • The neckline was finished with a soft wavy edge, inspired by the movement of the Bosphorus.
  • The cobalt blue open crochet gives the jacket lightness, drape and movement.
  • Cobalt blue forms the main body of the jacket.
  • Navy creates depth and contrast within the motifs.
  • Grey highlights the textured details and softens the design.
  • The colour palette reflects Istanbul’s blue light, İznik tilework and the protective eye symbol.
  • Three different square motifs were made first.
  • Cluster and textured stitches were used to create raised floral and tile-like effects.
  • The motifs were connected together using chain stitches.
  • The joined motif panels were then added to the main jacket.
  • The square motifs create the tile-inspired surface pattern across the back, hem and sleeves.
  • Finished with a handmade eye-shaped tie closure.
  • The tie was made as a replica of Amina’s Eye.
  • It works as both a fastening and symbolic embellishment.
  • A one-of-a-kind crochet jacket combining openwork, texture and cultural memory.
  • The piece sits between slow fashion, handmade fashion and wearable art.
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